Kauai
My happy place
As I start writing this piece, I am made aware of my limitations in bringing justice to Kauai. It’s a place where words fail. Five million years in the making, this island is a monument to time.
I first traveled to Kauai in May of 2021. As the world only started opening its doors after Covid, Kauai restored some of its mystery and novelty that tourism had normalized. I know this because when I returned in 2023 for my wedding and in 2024 for another trip, Kauai felt less enigmatic. Sure you can attribute the aura of mystery I experienced to my first time being there, but I do believe the isolation in 2020 allowed the island garden to thicken its cloak of beauty and grandeur before once again welcoming swarms of exhausted but very excited travelers.
The furthest of the Hawaiian islands from the mainland US, Kauai is an 8-hour flight from DFW and a 5-hour flight from California. It’ll be hard to contain your excitement when you land because the island is just so awesome. You are first greeted by the locals, who are genuinely happy to share their aloha, and then by the loudly cackling nomad chickens who proudly claim this island their home. You can taste the sea salt in the air, and the ocean breeze lures you in. Isolated in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and hours behind the mainland U.S., the worries of everyday life slowly fade away here.
Where to stay
There’s a tangible difference between North and South Kauai, but you won’t go wrong either way.
North: The quieter and serene part of the island, the North boasts more (and better, in my opinion) beaches but with fewer food and shopping options
Princeville is my HQ in Kauai. It’s a quiet upscale neighborhood close to pristine, calm beaches. For golfers, the Makai Golf Course is one of the best courses you’ll play. Their signature hole number 7 overlooks Hanalei Bay with the mountains in the backdrop - the perfect spot for a signature moment. The Makai has recently undergone a $6M renovation, so there’s no better time to visit than now.
Hanalei Bay is another great option. Just steps to the stunning calm waters of Hanalei Bay, this town is perfectly situated for travelers looking for a sweet spot. The Hanalei shopping center has grocery stores, shops, and restaurants. If hiking the Na Pali Coast is on your to-do list, Hanalei would be the closest town to stay in. Though tucked further in the North and a farther drive to the bustling South, you may not need to travel much outside this sanctuary.
South: More lively and developed, with more dining and shopping options.
I think of Koloa as truly the island’s city center. With plantation, mountain and beach views along with access to the most shopping and dining options, Koloa is my recommended place to stay for first-time visitors. Koloa is also closer to the airport than Princeville (~30min. vs ~50min). In the area is Poipu Beach — a family-friendly paradise with protected shallow waters and home to Hawaiian monk seals and green sea turtles, making it perfect for both children and parents.
Lihue, where the airport is located, serves as a centralized spot on the island for those looking to travel between the North and West shores. However, its central location comes at a price — the area is almost always congested
Beaches
Kauai is home to over half of all the beaches in Hawaii. Ranging from still waters to surfing waves, there is a beach for every beach-goer archetype. The water is blue and clear wherever your feet wanders but here are tried and tested favorites:
Tunnels Beach is an absolute gem. Though a little difficult to get to with limited parking and a ~10- 15min walk from the parking lot, this beach is the perfect spot for snorkeling and swimming. On a clear, visible day, you can see schools of fish even on the shallow ends, including the fish of Hawaii: the humuhumunukunukuapua’a. Just a short distance away from the beach is a steep drop-off, and suddenly you’re in the vastness of the Pacific.
If workout-first-then-beach-later is your vibe, Hideaway Beach is the one for you! Reaching it requires a downhill hike, but fret not - the trail is mostly paved. There’s a limited ~10 slot parking lot next to the One Hotel entrance that fills up quickly, so be the early worm or come mid-day when the early worms have had their beach fun. Though waves here are much stronger than in Tunnels, you’ll still have a great chance of sighting a Hawaiian turtle in its natural habitat.
Hanalei Bay, to me, is the perfect family beach. The water is calm with occasional waves, and the long beach welcomes all activities. The tropical mountains serve as the most picturesque background, making this beach a default photo shoot location. On our first trip, we saw Meryl Streep and her family swimming here.
What I love most about Poipu Beach is the ample parking and the proximity to restaurants. Not to mention, shallow and protected waters make it safe for kids and non-swimmers.
Literally where the road ends and the Kalau trail starts is Ke’e Beach. Calm as a swimming pool, Ke’e is a perfect snorkeling destination and very suitable for children. We’ve spotted a rare Hawaiian monk seal here once- a sign of good luck. Monk seals are endangered and protected, so please be a kind human! Ke’e Beach is part of the Haena State Park, and you will need to purchase an entrance ticket 30 days in advance to secure admission.
Must do
Take a Na Pali Coast Tour. Helicopter tours are popular but expensive, so I recommend taking a boat tour instead. On the boat tour, you’ll have the opportunity to greet local dolphins, snorkel in deep waters, enjoy waterfalls, and maybe even sight a mountain goat. If you’re an adrenaline junkie, book a sunset tour to ride those bumpy waves but if not, book the sunrise tours. All boat tours leave from the West side of the island (~1.5 hours from Princeville).
Catamaran Kahanu is a Hawaiian family-owned business open year-round. The family is friendly and knowledgeable, narrating the island’s history throughout the tour.
Na Pali Experience has smaller boats that can access the sea caves! If you’re not traveling with a large group, I highly recommend booking with them.
Kayak the Wailua River with a tour or with a rented kayak. The Wailua River is 20 miles long and meanders through a stunning jungle landscape. Exploring the river is a fairly inexpensive experience that requires no kayaking skills. Guided tours can last up to ~5 hours- again, sunrise tours are recommended. The trip involves a 4-mile round-trip river kayaking and a 2-mile round-trip hike to the Wailua waterfalls. This is a perfect active excursion!
Hike the Kalalau Trail, even just the 4-mile round-trip hike. The entire Kalalau Trail is 11 miles long and is famous for being one of the most dangerous hikes in the US. The challenging terrain comes with the territory, but so do the stunning views. Hiking the entire trail would require a full day and a special permit, but the 4-mile round-trip to Hanakapi’ai Beach should tire you plenty!
Enjoy a Luau for a good balance of entertainment and learning. The Auli’i Luau at the Sheraton Hotel is fabulous, and some packages include food and drinks.
For the golfers, the Makai, Poipu Bay, and Wailua GC are, in my husband’s humble opinion, some of the best in the country. Each course offers a different but equally beautiful perspective of the island.
For my fellow yogis who are bringing or restoring their namaste on vacation, I recommend visiting Akamu Wellness in Princeville and Black Coral Yoga in Hanalei.
This guide is non-exhaustive, but I believe it is a good starting point for travelers hoping to visit the Garden Island. Hawaii is truly the paradise we all dream it up to be, but next to having a good itinerary, what’s most important when traveling to Hawaii is respecting the locals. Be sensitive to their frustrations with the traffic, the noise, the litter, and most of all the expensive prices. We tourists — whether staying for a week or owning a vacation home for years — drive up prices and price Hawaiians out of their homes. As they share their home and aloha with us, let us express our gratitude by being kind and respectfulltravelers.
Mahalo
